For a moment it seemed like the industry had reached a point where it was finally ready to embrace a wide diversity of body types. It wasn’t until the 2010s that standards changed as “Kardashian” curves became sought-after, the body positivity movement gained momentum, and the wellness boom saw glowy health become a status symbol. G-Eazy infamously paid tribute to the aesthetic in his 2014 song “Tumblr Girls” which opened with: “I’m in love with these Tumblr girls / With skinny waists and drug habits”. With the prevalence of pro-ana (pro-anorexia) content, and the glamorisation of depression and drugs, in many ways the Tumblr girl was just heroin chic repackaged for teens. In the early 00s messaging promoting unhealthily thin bodies was rampant on largely unmonitored online forums and communities like Tumblr. Soon after, the fashion industry banded together to condemn the look and models like Gisele Bündchen, tanned and athletic, rose to prominence, with Vogue proclaiming the “the return of the sexy model” and “ the return of the curve ”.ĭespite this declaration, thin bodies remained a mainstream ideal for another almost two decades, enduring through the shifting aesthetics of Y2K, Indie Sleaze, and Twee. The aesthetic is widely considered to have come to an end with the death of 20-year-old Sorrenti in May 1997. It epitomised the decade’s grunge-inspired nihilism, which served as a pushback against the glossy excess of 80s hedonism. Led by a young Kate Moss and Jaime King, and documented by photographers like Davide Sorrenti and Corinne Day, the trend was controversially dubbed “heroin chic”. In the early 90s, the fashion industry was dominated by waifish models with pale skin and dishevelled hair.
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